Category Archives: La Manzanilla

Hello, Madam

 

i am republishing this story in response to a comment in this earlier post: https://judydykstrabrown.com/2025/05/05/the-numbers-game-71-may-5-2025-come-play-along/  wherein someone commented about a photo of a dried seahorse I had included in the photos. I wrote back a comment about how I had acquired the seahorse from a man I met on the beach and then remembered that I had included that encounter in an unfinished book that includes numerous stories I’ve experienced or heard in Mexico. In this version, I told it from that man’s point of view.  In the fictionalized account, he says I had purchased a beach house. I actually just rented it for a few months a year for a number of years.  Again, here the story is told from his point of view but everything else is more or less true:

Hello Madam

My story begins years ago, when the gringo woman first bought the palapa house that fronts the beach in our village. It is many years now since that day I first passed her walking on the beach—her heading south as I headed north. I saw her falter when I drew close enough for her to see the machete in my hand. It was held down by my side, as this is how I always carry it, so I think perhaps she didn’t see it until I was quite close. I saw her alter the cadence of her walk, start to turn around, then instead, veer out into the water so as to cut as wide a swath as possible in our passing. I bid her good morning, trying to be as non-threatening as a six-foot-tall Mexican man carrying a machete could be on this deserted section of the beach. No other people walk in the dawn darkness before the sun comes over the palm trees and palapa rooflines.

She bid me good morning as well, saying “Buen dia,” in our fashion, instead of the usual “Buenos dias” that would brand her as a gringa. Not that anyone would have mistaken her for anything else. She wore the sackish coverup that many norte americanos adopt as their bodies get older and wider. Her skin was white, her hair straw-colored. She carried a big bag and stooped often to retrieve shells, stones, driftwood and other objects from the beach that she made into art. I have seen these objects spread out on the palapa-covered front porch of her house on the beach, very close to the water. Sometimes when she was not outside, I had peeked at her new constructions and after our first month of passing daily on the beach, I held out to her a small treasure I had found: a seahorse, bright orange, no longer than half my thumb. It was dead but still pliable. When I held it out to her, she was at first taken aback. Then I saw the pleasure on her face, as though I’d handed her a rose. The next day, I handed her a small rock imprinted with the fossil of a shell. It was gratifying to give these small ordinary things to someone who found them to have value.

The third day, I gifted her with three seahorses I’d found lying side-by-side on the beach, as though ready for a communal funeral. After I gave them to her, spread out to dry on a small section of a palm seed sheath that I had hacked out with my machete, it was she who initiated a conversation by asking why I carried the machete; and this is what I said back to her:

“Hello Madam. Someone has already told me that you are looking for stories, and knowing that I have many that I remember well and also have been said to share interestingly enough, he has recommended that I seek you out. In spite of this, do not think that our meeting on this beach was anything but coincidental. I have walked here every morning at this time for many years. It is fate that engineered our introduction, not I.

I am Fernando, but everyone here calls me “The Machete.” There is a story to this, of course, as there is a story to everything in Mexico. Sometimes I think our country is composed more of stories than of flesh or blood or clay or concrete. Stories and dreams and reality. Almost always, it is hard to know the difference.

Many years ago. Well, not really so many years—maybe twelve or fifteen—it was not as it is now. Few gringos lived in our community. Instead, there were dogs. Many wild dogs who roamed the beach. Sometimes some of them were rabid and there were at times problems when people carried food onto the sand. A few times, they even invaded the restaurants that opened onto the beach, rushing past tables, grabbing arrechera from plates and sometimes catching a hand or leg in the process. This brought a good deal of fear because of the fear of rabies, and everyone was talking to those who ran our pueblo, asking them what they were going to do about it. Finally, some of the men of the pueblo took guns and machetes and went in search of these dogs, disposing of many of them. For a while, peace reigned on the beach, but every few years, another wild pack would form and people would again be afraid to go onto the wilder parts of the beach—those parts where you and I like to walk.

Since I live a few miles from the place of my labor, it has been my practice for all these years to walk to work on the beach and as you might have guessed, this machete was my weapon against the wild dogs. Through the efforts of the many gringos who now live in our town, and the free spay and neuter clinics they provide twice a year, the problem of the wild dogs has disappeared; but I still carry my machete. It is as though my body has altered itself to accept this extra weight on my right side, so that without the machete, I cannot walk right. I cannot stride. I am not as sure-footed. This daily encumbrance has become a part of me, so always I carry it by my side. The story is simple. This is all there is to it.”

We passed on then, each in our particular direction, but I believe we parted as, if not friends, at least as congenial acquaintances. This was my first conversation with this woman who would one day have such an impact upon my life. It seems an inconsequential thing—this exchange of four seahorses and an imprinted stone—but these simple objects of seemingly no value were to be the golden key to my future—a story I will perhaps tell you one day if kind fate should set us in each others’ path.

This was the last chapter I wrote in a book entitle “Cucumber” that I was writing a few years ago. I never completed it, but I feel it stands on its own, so when I found it stashed away in a forgotten folder on my computer, I decided to share it as-is. Perhaps I’ll share some of the other chapters in the future–or perhaps I already have. I’ll have to check..Let me know if you think it works as it is. It is actually based on a true story, but told from the point of view of a real person I encountered many times on the beach.  The event mentioned is true, although the book will be a blend of fiction and real happenings. 

On a Candlemas Afternoon for the W3 prompt, Apr 6, 2025

On a Candlemas Afternoon

Palm shadows of a lazy afternoon
brush over, but do not disturb
the sleeping dog who fills the pavement
in front of “Abarrotes Gloria.”
Under its dusty awning, on a bench
meant for  customers notably absent,
a sleep-nodding senora
with small crocheted animals  for sale
watches for anyone to stir the calm of this mid-afternoon.

Through one imperceptibly cracked-open eye,
she watches the long-skirted bead vendor
make her hourly crossing from the beach,
her tray still heavy
after five hours of trudging
under the sweating sun,
that eye only opening wider
as two young men on loud motorcycles
circle the plaza in Izod shirts
from the used clothing booth of the mercado,
leaving a tree-shaking breeze
that filters through shadows
to stir the fine hairs on her arm.

for: The W3 Poetry prompt

To see other poems to this prompt go HERE

La Manzanilla Feb. 3 and 4

Click on photos to enlarge.

Rivers, Lakes and Oceans: Water Water Everywhere, #167

Click on photos to enlarge.

For Water Water Everywhere #167

Aztec

Last night we went to “Aztec,”a unique restaurant in La Manzanilla.  There were some surprises!!!  One is the fabulous art that the owner creates, but the other was discovering a set of identical twins in the dining room and if that wasn’t surprise enough—there were two sets of identical twins. When have you last seen that?  If you click on the photos, they enlarge. There was just one Rachel there,  and she found the margaritas and menu to be A-1!!!!

Please click on photos to enlarge.

Paradise From a Bird’s Eye View

I knew if I tried hard enough that I could find my picture of the mosquito–netted bed in my treehouse!  Finally found it in my Facebook photos.

I had to wait until I was in my sixties to get my treehouse. This is a story I wrote about it eight years ago:

Paradise From A Bird’s Eye View

I’ve been living in a treehouse in a coconut grove that borders the manglar (mangrove swamp) of La Manzanilla, Mexico, for three weeks now. This grove is next to a long lagoon, a wildlife reserve for the birds, crocodiles and other animals that live in this transition land between the ocean beach and inland terrain that rises steeply up to the coastal mountain chain. My small circular ground-floor kitchen and living room area as well as all of the furniture is formed of cob, a building material consisting of clay, sand, straw, water and earth. 

It is about twelve steps out the front door to the bathroom, which is attached to the main house of my landlord. If I turn left, I can ascend a spiral staircase made of beautiful hardwood to a platform above that contains my wall-less but screened bedroom as well as a large unscreened porch, one-third of it covered with a palapa roof, the rest open to the sky. My aerie is the highest habitation point around me. Above me is only sky and coconut palms until you reach the mountains less than a mile away.

I came here to work without distraction on a number of sculptures for a show in early April. Yesterday, I emerged from the psychic spell of my work to hear a steady tap tap tapping in the tallest palm tree near my deck. It is just a trunk rising to a stub high above. I imagine the tree was killed and stripped of leaves by my landlord due to the dangers of falling coconuts. Now it afforded a perfect view of a woodpecker. He was much larger than the only woodpeckers I’d ever seen before—the acorn jays that I sometimes saw in the redwoods of my northern CA home. This was a real Woody Woodpecker fellow with full red headdress.

Unfortunately, my camera was not to be found, but yesterday’s missed photo opportunity was why I had made sure today to place my camera near the entrance to the outside deck. When I heard his steady rap rap rap early  this morning, it was from too far away for the camera to capture. I could barely make out the silhouette of the bird on a tall palm in the bird sanctuary next door.

Sinking again into the world of my artistic creation, it was three hours later that I was again jolted out of my own world by the crashing of object after object through the palm tree fronds of the lot next door.  I could hear men’s voices calling out and when I went out onto my platform, I saw coconuts falling from a tree a short distance away. First I’d hear the swing of a machete, then coconuts would fall, sometimes singly in rapid progression, at other times in huge bunches of ten to twenty coconuts let down by means of a long yellow rope.  Both of these methods of transferring the coconuts from tree to ground occurred too quickly to ever capture them on camera.

I returned to my work inside but kept an ear cocked, hoping to catch the descent of monkey-man, but a few minutes later when I went out to check, I was disappointed to see the rope gone.  What life takes away with one hand, however, it gives with another, for now the man was in a tree closer to my platform, so close that I could catch glimpses of his blue shirt through the dense cover of palm fronds far above.

I clicked picture after picture before my camera started to malfunction. Thanks to sea salt and humidity, this was to be a bad two months for cameras. My own favorite had stopped working three weeks before while we were still at the beach, its shutter unable to close. (The camera left for me to use by my boyfriend who had spent the first month with me but who had departed three week ago, now seemed to suffer some malaise as well. I tried battery after battery, to no avail. Then, suddenly, it started working again. )

By now, I’d called out to the man high above me as well as the two men far below us both–one who operated the rope and picked up loose coconuts, the other who carried the huge bunches to a waiting pickup a short distance away. I had plenty of pictures of the agile man who rapidly climbed the tree with only the aid of his hands and bare feet, so I came down my spiral staircase and headed around the house to try to find the other two men.

When I got to the gate, I saw three children playing with Bobino—the collective name I’d given the two identical tiny dogs who had made my life both a pleasure and a hell, depending on whether they were visiting me in hopes of pats and edible treats or punctuating the air at two in the morning with their loud and irritating squeeze-toy barks which prompted loud hissings and noisy flights through the underbrush below my treehouse by cats or raccoons or whatever they were chasing.

At first, I thought these children to be the cacophonous children of my neighbor, whom I’d never seen but heard a lot of. The baby was a crier and her older brother and sister were loud and seemingly naughty, judging by the number of times their mother shouted out “Gordo” to the boy and “Gordita” to the girl.  (Nicknames closely similar to “Fatso” or “Chubby” in English.)

The children came running toward me, Bo and Bino running at their heels. “Agua?” they requested, holding out the empty nursing bottle of their baby brother.

“Do you live over there?” I asked, pointing in the direction of the house next door. When they said no, I asked if that was a member of their family in the tree, and they said yes. I shut the gate and said I’d be back, skirting my landlord’s house. I returned with a bottle of purified water and a package of peanut butter cookies. Would they like a cookie? I asked. They would. Was it okay for the baby? It was. Seconds came about in short order. I asked again if that was their papa in the tree, and they said no, their papa was at the rancho. But yes, they were with the coconut-gatherers.

By now, the men had  finished, their pickup completely filled with a high-mounded load of coconuts. I took their picture, offered cookies again all around. Would I like a coconut, asked blue shirt?  I would.   With the same swiftness and facility of movement that had allowed him to scale a palm tree in under 30 seconds, he removed a coconut from the truck, whipped out his machete and with three swift movements, neatly removed the top of  the coconut and held his gift out to me.

How many coconuts had they collected? 150 he said. What did they sell them for? Ten pesos apiece. (about eighty cents U.S.)  1500 pesos was not a bad hourly wage. After I had heard grandpa monkey’s family history, traded smiles all around and showed them their pictures, they departed.

Every day has provided a new thrill up here in the air. Last month’s sound of surf as we slept in a house right on the beach has retreated into the distance, replaced by geckos, crickets, an occasional cicada, the rustling of animals unseen on the deck outside my screening or on the palapa roof or far below in the undergrowth. There are the frequent irritating sounds of the man who roars down the highway that runs just a house’s breadth away in an all-terrain vehicle, minus muffler. His passing back and forth and back and forth was constant all day yesterday (Sunday) as well as for hours every night after 10 or so. Two huge speed bumps and two arroyo dips do nothing to slow him down.

My living platform is where all the odors rise to:  the delicious aromas of my landlord’s cooking, the burning garbage of my neighbors, the noxious fumes of the copal he’d burned at a party a week before.

Here every sense is acknowledged as I slap the occasional mosquito that finds an opening in the screen or mosquito net. Now, even the sense of taste has been added, I realize, as I go down to the kitchen for a straw and sit drinking the delicately-flavored water of the coconut.

Paradise, someone who saw pictures of my treehouse on my Facebook page wrote as a comment. Paradise, I agree.

 

Although my treehouse “studio” was as high as the tops of smaller palms, the coconut palms being harvested were high above.

 

The ascent and descent were so rapid that it was difficult to capture this picture.


Anchoring the bunch with ropes to prevent damage in their descent.


My new friends, cookies and baby bottle clearly in view.  


The coconut crew and truck with a full load.


Bobino.  Since they are rarely seen singly, I decided their names should be joined as well.


Ten minutes before this picture was snapped, this liquid refreshment had been hanging far over head.

Many thanks to Forgottenman for uploading these photos for me when my wifi went on the blink.

For Normal Happenings

Standout: Sunday Trees Feb 17, 2019

IMG_8835

Viewed from my friend’s clliffside house, his rangy tree stands far above the rest.

For Becca’s Sunday Trees.

La Manzanilla Sunset, Feb 11, 2018

Beat this sky, if you can!!  One of the best of countless fabulous sunsets in La Manzanilla.
(Click on photos to enlarge.)

                                              Sunset Rating Society of La Manzanilla, Beach Bar Chapter.

“Golden Hour” A Photo a Week Challenge

On the west coast of Mexico, sunset is indeed a golden experience. I especially like the way the ocean tides reflect the colors of the sunsets.  You’ll need to click on the first photo to see these all in a larger size and in better detail.

For the A Photo a Week Challenge

Sunset Susurration

Click on first photo to enlarge all.


Sunset Susurration

The murmuration of the waves, the breeze’s gentle rush,
the small stain of the setting sun, spread by nature’s brush.
The yellow of her pallet, bold orange and red and pink
complicate the skyline as we watch the sun’s orb sink
like a flame-red new-cast penny set upon the ledge
of that calmer ocean on the horizon’s edge.

See it slip so quickly into the ocean’s slot,
making us forget for now all that we are not.
All of life’s frustrations, all misbegotten schemes,
are flushed into the water to sink into its seams.
This is why we gather to watch the sunset’s beauty.
every single evening—as though it were a duty.

The prompt today was murmuration.